Finished Project: Vogue 8766 Hacked!

If I learned one thing from Me Made May, it's that I need more easy summer sundresses in my DIY wardrobe. And though it's my opinion that any dress that must be worn with a strapless bra does not actually qualify as "easy to wear," I do think my Vogue 8766 hack will gets lots of love from me this summer:  

I made quite a few changes: I smocked shirred the back bodice piece and created a button placket down the front; I added spaghetti straps and thread belt loops, plus side pockets. Here's Vogue's line drawing of 8766 to give you an idea of the original look. I used the strapless bodice variation with the circle skirt (bottom right):

Weekend sewing: LBJ Dress

It's not often that a man's disparate interests intersect in the way that the Broadway play "All The Way" brings together my husband's fascination with Lyndon Johnson and his love of theater.

So I bought tickets for the final week of the show (whose star Bryan Cranston just won the Tony Award for Best Actor). Set in 1963-64, All The Way starts with JFK's assassination and ends with the passing of the Civil Rights Act. It's not, as you may have guessed, a musical. The tickets are my husband's birthday gift and a major splurge; it's rare we get to go out like this together.

So I thought it appropos to make a dress for this very special occasion using a pattern I snatched from the swap table at Workroom Social's recent Manhattan meetup:

How very '60s, right? I choose View E for the neckline (it is a date, after all) and the 3/4 sleeves. I'm intrigued by the long dart that curves from the bust apex all the way to the hip:

I'm using this black and white printed cotton blend I bought last month at Mood:

The pattern's previous owner had already shortened it for me — and she apparently cut the same version too. Thank you, whoever you are!

Worried about how it would fit through the hips (and not sure how to take it in or let it out thanks to that weird long dart), I tested the pattern in a not-very-stretchy jersey I bought from Girl Charlee for just $3. I will be adjusting the pattern to bring it in at the waist — and then drop the armhole (and adjust the sleeve). Hopefully I can cut into my fabric before the weekend is through.

Moving on, earlier this week I also sewed three zipper clutch bags for my daughter's teachers, using the Bow Clutch Tutorial from Elm Street Life.



For the lining I used this "I Like You" fabric by comedian and crafter Amy Sedaris (I bought it at Hart's Fabrics here):

I made special sew-in tags for Lucy's teachers to remember her by using the DIY tag tutorial I posted last month:

My daughter helped with sewing the bags. She stitched the bows for all three on a Singer Featherweight on loan to me from Peter of Male Pattern Boldness. At one point she said, "Mom! I'm like a Pilgrim!" (because she was sewing on a vintage machine). Not quite the right era but I will take the enthusiasm. (Hopefully they teach History in Grade 1?).

So what's on your sewing table for the weekend?

Free Pattern: Little Swimmer Bathing Cap

What are the pool rules where you live? Do you (or your kids) have to wear a swimcap in the water? My daughter recently started swimming lessons at a nearby private pool (located in an apartment building in the Northwest Bronx) and everyone who enters the water must be wearing a swimcap.

It's kind of a pain though it makes sense; do you want to swim around with your neighbors' stray hairs? (Or see the pool shuttered when they have to clean the filter — again?).

But the spandex cap we bought her was too big, and the rubbery ones pulled at her hair. So what does a lady with some extra spandex and little pattern paper do? I drafted my own. And because it is so simple, I am sharing it here for free.  After the jump:

Pattern Review: Salme Patterns' Double-layer Camisole

Don't you hate how your favorite TV characters never repeat their outfits? (I'm not talking about the Sex and the City ladies; the most unrealistic thing on that show was the fact that New Yorkers would walk four abreast down a busy sidewalk. Everyone knows only tourists and middleschoolers do that).

Displaying my daily me-made wardrobe this May has me actually caring about week-over-week repeats. I could just wear what I had on yesterday (oh look! It's still here on the floor where I left it!) but I won't because it seems gauche to re-gram the same selfie. Looking at my grid of pics on Instagram is a good push to dig through the far reaches of my closet for those items I've sewn and then never worn.

Simplicity 1872 is one such project. Sewn at the behest of Kollabora.com when it first launched, I was never really thrilled with this dress. The flare on the skirt was unevenly distributed, creating too much fullness right at the sides (I have drafted many skirts so I could tell by how it hung that the flare wasn't evenly distributed). I have enough fullness on my hips, thankyouverymuch. I do like the bodice but that sleeve gathered with elastic is just two precious for me:

So in an effort to avoid wearing yet another Scout Tee or Tiny Pocket Tank, I turned this dress into two tops this week. Numero Uno, an easy peplum top, which retained the bodice and an underneath piece that had been attached to one layer of the skirt:

And Salme Patterns' Double-layer Camisole:

This is the first Salme Pattern that I have worked with though I've been lurking her shop for some time. I completely adore how it turned out and was high-fiving myself for the fact that I was able to squeeze this tank out of the remaining yardage from my pillaged skirt. Her guidelines suggest you only need 5/8 yard for this top, and she's right. I used even less, I think, because I raised the waistline by two inches (I had no choice due to fabric limitations — and also, I am quite short-waisted). 

This top comes together so easily: you sew the outer layer to the inner layer with the straps sandwiched between, which finishes the neckline all around. The little spaghetti straps are easy to make (though in this lightweight voile they feel pretty skimpy, which worries me that they will not last). The darts are nicely placed. The only change I think I would make is to pinch out some excess along the front neckline. It gapes a little, but that excess can be rotated into the dart the same way that I did it with Burda's Cap Sleeve Dress (another dress I never wear but that's another story!) 

 

One thing about Salme Patterns: you have to add your own seam allowances, which I am fine with. In fact, I think it's a good idea; depending on how you plan on finishing your seams, you may want a different size seam allowance. (Also, it makes it easier to edit a pattern when you are not also mucking around in seam allowances.)

But for a beginning sewer, I think that would be a deal-breaker. I can just imagine the blank stares I'd get if I told my sewing students that they had to add seam allowances.....(crickets).

So there it is: one unworn dress transformed into two wearable tops — and two more days of no-repeat Me Made May! How have you turned a dud DIY into something you can actually wear? And can you think of a TV character (other than Wonder Woman) who wore the same thing more than once?

We go together like... Simplicity 1887 and Salme's Loose-fitting Pleated T-shirt!

Perhaps it's Me Made May that has me thinking about sewing patterns that go together. After all, as a participant (watch my Instagram feed for daily posts), I'll be wearing handmade every day for the next 31. And as a wannabe overachiever, I want to wear more than one thing whenever possible. But how many outfits can I put together with more than one handmade item from my closet? So far, not many, which is why I'm considering these combos for my May sewing plans:

The Gabriola Skirt by Sewaholic...

...with the new Nettie bodysuit by Closet Case Files (medium back and short sleeves, please):

(Seriously, what could possibly go together better than those two patterns? You would be feminine and sexy and comfortable...)

I also like Simplicity 1887, the pant version with elasticized cuffs...

...with Salme Patterns' Loose Fitting Pleated T (cropping it would be cute, non?):

I've been working on a new pattern of my own this week. It's a short-sleeved sweatshirt with perforated pleather raglan sleeves and "Sew York City" stenciled on the front (I'll be making some changes around here in the coming months, with my blog name being one of them). 

And I think it would look great with True Bias' yet-to-be-released Hudson Pant pattern (no link to buy yet; Kelli has so far only previewed her pants on Instagram):

How cute would they be together? Cool urban mom at the playground kicking balls like a boss? (Ahem, cool urban mom who sews, at the playground kicking balls like a boss!)

What are your favorite pattern combos, indie or otherwise? 

Pattern Review: Jolly Roger Raglan Tee

A few months ago I started teaching sewing at this great space in Upper Manhattan, Bread and Yoga (they also have yoga, obviously, as well as art and cooking). In addition to beginner adult classes and weekend workshops, I also teach tween classes (age 9-13). And since most of the young girls in my class ultimately want to sew clothes, I started searching the web for easy tween patterns. It's not easy to find patterns for that age group that look like something they would actually want to wear.


And then I found the Jolly Roger Raglan Tee pattern by Patterns for Pirates, a small indie patternmaker who specializes in boys clothing. She has just four patterns available for download at her Etsy shop. Having drafted a raglan T pattern before, I didn't mind paying the $7.50 for the downloadable PDF of this multi-sized T-shirt in several variations, including long sleeved with a cuff, 3/4-length sleeve and short. Plus it comes in sizes 3m,6m,9m,12m,18m,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,10,12,14 — which gives you options. But I've never heard of Patterns for Pirates — nor could I find any sewn examples on sewing blogs. Would it be any good? 

I made one in size 7 for my daughter, using some cotton knit from Chic on 39th Street in NYC's Garment District:

And then I tested it out in the largest size — 14 (I wondered whether both sizes would fit well; pattern grading between such disparate sizes ain't easy). It fit me pretty much perfectly:

There's a bit of rippling at the top where the stripes meet the sleeve and neckline. I chalk that up to my own error in using fabrics with different amounts of stretch. (I also possibly didn't measure my neckband properly). No matter: I've worn it at least several times anyway since then.

This was such an easy make: I sewed it all on my serger. My fabric was quite stretchy so the fit was great all around — even though this top was designed to fit a 14-year-old boy. The striped fabric is rayon from Metro Textile. The grey sleeves and neckband are upcycled from a maternity nightgown:

The pattern also includes options for elbow patches and that little triangle thing at the center front (is there a word for that?). There are three different hem choices too: banded hem, traditional hem and curved. I do love options. (My big quibble with some indies is that often there are no options — you have to draft them yourself).

The pattern instructions include full color photos and detailed instructions, making the Jolly Roger a good option for someone who hasn't sewn a T-shirt before. If you have sewn a raglan T before, you probably won't even need them. All the pattern pieces are clearly marked and fit together perfectly.

Making a bunch of little Ts in the smallest sizes would be a great way to use up scraps of your most treasured stretch fabrics. I've yet to try out the littlest sizes to see how they fit, but I'm guessing after my two samples they will be just fine. It's a great basic top — and I think easy enough for a tween to sew (they don't yet know to be afraid of stretch fabrics, which is wonderful!).

Sew Sexy Sewalong — If It Feels Good, Do It

In my long blogging absence I was pleased to see my legacy lived on in inspiring a movement to add a little sexy to our sewing tables (keep your feet on the floor, ladies and gents, I'm talking about sexing up our patterns not our privates!).

(I'm giving myself too much credit here, but I was linked to by the sexy ladies Clio, Lisette (What Would Nancy Drew Wear?) and Nettie of Sown Brooklyn so that's something considering how little I was participating in our little corner of the Interwebz). 

Anyway, to throw my hat in the proverbial ring, I'd like to add to the discussion on what makes a home-sewn garment sexy. My main criteria for judgement these days: would I wear it to a parent-teacher meeting? If the answer is "no," then I think it qualifies as "sew sexy." And this dress (from the Drape Drape 2 book; thank you, Gingermakes!) meets that criteria. Booty-hugging in the back and with long drapey folds that draw your eyes downward towards your, um, uh, bobbin casing, this dress is definitely something I wouldn't wear to Kindergarten pickup. (OK, I would, but only with a long cardigan on top and thick leggings underneath — because this thing is SHORT, and to think I even sewed the XL size!).  

And what I love about this pattern (which was the most difficult puzzle I've worked on since figuring out how to put together my kid's play kitchen one Christmas Eve) is how easy it is to wear. So you're not constantly adjusting or checking to make sure just the right amount of cleavage is showing, which means you can relax — the true key to feeling sexy in something you made.

I have a few weeks lefts for another addition to this project (which you can see more of in their Flickr group here). I'm hoping to sew up a dress with a back cutout, should the pattern arrive in time. 

Do you have a fave sexy pattern? 

Finished Object! Mommy Poppins Bag

One project done on the new-to-me Singer Featherweight, and I'm already thinking of all the garments I could attempt now that I would never have been able to do on my anemic contemporary Singer. Jeans? A leather jacket? 

I digress. The new machine, on loan from the Peter Lappin Singer Sewing Machine Museum, Chelsea Annex, came just in time; I don't think the Mommy Poppins Bag I made this weekend would have turned out half as great without it: 

I was so thrilled to test out Jodi Bonjour's newest bag pattern. It's actually a diaper bag, but I think it does just fine as an NYC-sized handbag.

Show A Little Skin — Whither the Sexy Patterns?

Are sewers an especially modest lot? Or is there some other good reason why it's nearly impossible to find patterns that show a little skin?

While on a recent Mood shopping outing with Oonaballoona, we were talking about a certain independent pattern company that both of us found to be a bit....modest. That's the nice way to put it, I guess. Matronly would the not-so-nice way. But then I realized this company is not the only one. Of all the independent pattern companies I know of, I can't find many patterns that you could call sexy — except in the way that a buttoned-up blouse can be sexy by concealing the wild woman within.

Boat necks. Peter Pan collars. Lots of buttons and gathers, but not alot of sex appeal — that's what I see  out there.

Is there not enough mass appeal in plunging necklines or collarbone-baring details? Or is it a function of the fact that most of us are sewing with wovens, which pose fit problems when it comes to plunging necklines?

To that end, I think of Burdastyle.com's Cap Sleeve Dress, which I had to adjust to correct gaping at the neckline (a problem many others also seemed to have). The end result was a higher neckline (and no hope for a hint of cleavage):

Meanwhile this Simplicity dress (1872) I sewed a few versions of last year was way too modest, in my opinion. After the first version (on the left below) I chopped an inch and a half off the front overlapping neckline, (but then I had to add a hook-and-eye to keep it from collapsing and revealing all — still much more flattering, I think):

The one true sexy, skin-baring item I have sewn is Burdastyle's Bustier Dress with Draped detail, A.K.A. Gertie's Bombshell Dress. (On which I raised the sweetheart neckline by an inch, by the way!). It's not exactly every day wear though:

In the spirit of public service, I searched for a few skin-baring patterns. Burdastyle seemed to have the most:

Burdastyle.com's Stretch Sequin Dress:

Plus Size Off-the-Shoulder Dress

Among independents, there's Salme Patterns sundress (kind of bare, though I don't think you would have any cleavage showing):

And Grainline's Kat Strapless Dress, which is pretty bare through I think the sweetheart neckline and empire waist make it look more girly than sexy:

Hot Patterns has this Deco Vibe Dress, which has a plunging neckline (though they keep it modest with a turtleneck underneath! Ack! No!):

This is about as sexy as it gets at Simplicity:

Over at Vogue there are plenty of patterns with sex appeal, and a few with slightly more daring necklines. I think a higher ratio of patterns that are sewn in knits could be the reason why. I'm loving V1343, a Tracey Reese for Vogue pattern. It's not a lot of skin, but it's a start:

Meanwhile at McCalls, this is the only hint of cleavage I saw (M6560) and I would not say this dress is very sexy; it looks like an apron from the back — not exactly the message I want to send on a hot date with my husband:

Am I missing some major supplier of sexy patterns? (Or do those of you who like to slut it up just use your French curve to draw a deeper neckline and hope for the best?)

Woe is Me: UFO Coming In For A Landing

In sewing, as in life, there's nothing I hate more than backtracking. (I'd rather get off the bus one stop early to avoid overshooting a destination, and if you ask me to repeat myself, I think hard about whether what I said was in fact worth saying twice before complying).

And unpicking stitches is enough to make me abandon a project all together.

With that, I have to say: Really, Burda? REALLY?

Botched Burda 141 Top For Girls

Alright, the blame should really be on me. 

And the thought of unpicking an entire project is not enough to elicit a little sympathy this rainy Wednesday, take a look at my kitchen. I have less counter space now than I did at age 20 when I lived in a camper trailer:

Please note: no dishwasher

Pity party over. Check out the LBD I've been sewing from McCall's 6319. No mistakes, no backtracking (too bad I had to use a flash for the pics though; it's dark in NYC today!)

I used the black ponte knit that Gingermakes so generously gave to me. I love it. Sometimes something easy to sew is just as easy to wear. I'm still deciding on a hemline. I keep trying it on with different shoes, which each demand a different length. With heels: longer. Flats: short, obviously, am I right?

love the zip!

How about you people? Screwed anything up lately? Feeling down in the dumps thanks to mid-winter weather and incomplete pattern instructions?

A Special Surprise!

Friends, I was mulling over a post about how I'm expecting to bleed readers over the coming weeks because I actually had no plans for sewing on the horizon. (I know! Horrors!)

With not a single useable scrap of fabric in my "stash" (a generous word for what I have thrown in a Rubbermaid tub under my drafting table), and little money in the bank, it just seemed sewing something new was out of my reach for the time being.

(However, I did just start working on an ambitious (for me) stop motion video project. Is that something you people would like to read about? Or should I keep my progress on that to myself? It does involve sewing moveable figurines — which I have never done before. I've become quite obsessed with it. It may be my Gangs of New York — i.e. it will probably take me 20 years to finish).

Anyway, back to sewing: my mojo was also flagging after a failure before Christmas — one that I have yet to post due to two successive coldsores. (Readers: I am vain enough not to allow photos when my mug is besmirched by oral herpes).

And then yesterday I came home to find a giant box on my doorstep. I wasn't expecting anything, but when I saw the return address, I knew it was going to be good! Sonja (of Gingermakes) randomly sent me a box of assorted fabric, some notions, and the Drape Drape 2 book! Perhaps she was tired of reading my complaints about not having fabric? Maybe her New Year's resolution involves being charitable to the needy? Either way: Sewing mojo restored!

Check out how generous Gingermakes was (missing from this pile is a couple spools of thread and a black zipper; girlfriend thinks of everything!):

My box of treasures included:

-a few yards of a nice black (ponte?) knit

-a few yards of brown chambray

-some turquoise lining fabric

-a few yards of turquoise jersey printed with hearts that resemble a giraffe's spots

-some grey sweatshirt material printed with white and pink hearts

Of course Lucy claimed the heart print knit (which was no doubt intended for her!)

  

However, Lucy likes the wrong side even better:

I think that knit needs to be made into this adorable Burdastye.com kids dress with pockets:

 

If there's enough, maybe she'll get one of each (right side out, and wrong side too).

I was thinking the brown chambray would be a good choice for a new Western shirt for Ryan. I haven't sewn anything for him in a while. This is the pattern I like, McCalls 6044:

  

But, inspired by Peter of Male Pattern Boldness' new trick of swaddling his face in a fabric to check whether the color enhances his complexion, I decided to see if it's a shade that would complement me better: 

Sorry, pal. I may keep this for myself, though I'm not sure what to do with it. Maybe Robe Sureau by Deer and Doe? I saw a nice chambray version on Burdastyle, though I worry about wrinkling in the rear end...

The black knit will become a LBD, using this pattern I happen to have on hand (McCall's 6319). I like version A, with the shoulder zip:

As for the heart-printed turquoise, Lucy and I swaddled up to see who would wear it better:

 Could be a draw....luckily there's enough I think I can make something for each of us. Maybe this Drape Drape 2 dress? It would be a little wild:

Or maybe leggings and a dress for Lucy, if I can't work up the courage to wear such a bold print.

Either way, thanks to Sonja, I now have the problem of deciding which project to tackle first — a great problem to have! If you don't know her blog (and I'n guessing you all do, because she's much more popular and prolific than I!), check it out at http://gingermakes.wordpress.com.

So with this bounty, what would you make first?