Today's Confessional: Or All the Lazy Changes I Made to Vogue 8626

 

The back of my in-progress Very Easy Vogue 8626 jacket is turned in shame (and also to show its best feature: the princess seams and back pleats). Shame because of all the lazy changes I made to this easy coat pattern. I don't know why I feel the need to confess here now, but I will — if only to make you feel better about all the shortcuts you will take today.

To start, I spent a total of $7.60 on the fabric and notions for this coat: the wool suiting was $2/yard at a classroom sale at FIT last spring. I should have bought more though: I had to trim 3.5 inches off the hem to make the pattern pieces fit on my length of fabric (That's the first of my sins). I also trimmed an inch off the sleeves (again, to conserve fabric, which I was short on). But I'm short, so I think the proportions will still work on me.

For the lining I used fleece leftover from a few other projects (so I'm not counting it towards the $7.60 total). The pattern doesn't call for fleece. It calls for lining fabric. But I was feeling cold the day I started cutting this out, so decided to go with the fleece. I didn't line the sleeves at all though, because when it came time to sew those, it was warm again in NYC. Plus it seemed like it would be too bulky. I've been trying the coat on as I go, and I think these questionable (and possibly schizophrenic) fabric choices will work out in the end (so relax).

The buttons were $3.60 for six. Because I changed the proportions of the coat slightly by shortening it (and making it somewhat bulkier), I am the button placement. The rule is always to have a button right at your bust (to avoid gaping problems when you wear it), and I didn't want a button too near the hem. The buttonholes are not yet sewn (I think I will have to do them by hand. Pray for me), and nor are the buttons sewn on. I also need to finish the hem.

So what was one shortcut you took today? Was it worth it? I'll start: I put ALL my laundry in one machine. Don't judge.

Very Easy Vogue 8626 In Progress

When I started cutting the pattern for Very Easy Vogue 8626, a simple coat with princess seams and gorgeous back pleats, it was still fall in New York. Then it snowed and I wondered whether I would even be able to wear it in 2011. 

See the back princess seams:

 I bought this blue and orange plaid wool suiting from a sale at the Fashion Institute of Technology last spring. It was $2/yard. I only had two yards though, so I had to shorten the coat 3 1/2 inches in order to make the pattern pieces fit on my yardage. I'm short though (5' 3"), so I think it will still look good.

I did my best to match up the plaid....which wasn't that successful, as you can see. Oops. I love it anyway. (You love me for my flaws too, right?) 

 The front is much more understated. I'm still waiting for my buttons to arrive. I ordered them online because I can't muster the strength to go downtown to the garment district with my kid again anytime soon. My husband has a lot of gigs these days, which is good for our family's bottomline, but bad for solo notions shopping trips.

I clearly need to research plaid-matching tips, though my front and side seams are good. Should I have the side panels matched up too? It's tricky with the grain lines. Any tips? Send 'em my way.

Le Skirt du Jour!

I've been admiring all the high-waisted, button-up skirts posted by Burdastyle.com members lately (Collette Patterns' version is called the "Beignet," alluding to its French appeal).

Mine's not exactly the same. The Beignet is a straight skirt, with a whole lot more buttons, and a tie around the waist. But this only took an hour or so to sew, so I win. (I'm pretty sure that's how it works).

I made mine from a man's dark denim dress shirt. It was too large for my husband (a hand-me-down from a friend who likes to see Ryan model his clothes. Don't ask). So I chopped it off at the armpits, gathered it all around (though not right at center front; I don't want to look poochy), and then sewed on a simple straight waistband, cut to fit my true waist. It's tres adorable, non? (Overkill with the stripes and beret, you say? Je ne garde pas. Je l'aime!)

Second-hand store shopping in New York City

There are a lot of reasons to love New York City, but thrift-store shopping is not one of them. My guess is store rents are too damn high for true second-hand stores to stay in business (though there are a few Salvation Armies and, of course, high-end vintage stores — but not anywhere near my neighbourhood).

That's not to say you won't find great items. But you will pay through the nose here because even employees of Unique Thrift Store in the Bronx know the value of a Stella McCartney blazer (I saw one there, on display up high behind the counter. The price tag was $299.99. Which seems fair considering eBay's "Buy it now" price on similar blazers is around $250. But still: $299 for anything at a second-hand store is a little outrageous). We went there to find a dress shirt and tie for Lucy for a video we were making. We found a little shirt, vest and tie set for $7, which seems overpriced to me. You can probably buy the same set for $9 down the street. I miss Value Village.

Other shocking finds on our trip that day: a vintage Ralph Lauren one-piece ski suit for $69.99 (I believe a similar piece was on display at the Fashion Institute of Technology's "Sporting Life" exhibit. I'm not surprised by the price tag — but by the fact that an employee of Unique Thrift Store would put this much value in a old polyester onesie).

And the Fresh Prince of Bel Air's favourite dress shirt, for $24.99 (!!):

Seriously, we saw Old Navy shirts that probably cost more than they did originally. But this place was packed. People were buying. Maybe how much I value other people's castoffs is directly correlated to the size of my bank account, but I just can't stomach the prices of second-hand clothing in NYC. I used to love shopping second-hand, garage sales, flea markets and the like. But here, everything is priced for the expert or collector. There's no thrill in finding an overpriced vintage Ralph Lauren ski suit. The thrill comes from saying to yourself, "Don't they know what it's worth?" as you pay $6.99 for a museum artifact-worthy item.

I'd love to be proven wrong though. Know of any great second-hand stores in NYC? Tell me!

Finished Project: Perfect Bombshell Dress in Peacock

See me on the lower left corner there above? That would be Burdastyle.com giving me a little love for my Peacock Print Perfect Fit Bombshell Dress, which I finished and finally wore last weekend, yet still haven't posted pics of yet here. We are still so overwhelmed with moving/work/life, that I have had too little time to write here. My daughter is at her new preschool this morning, and I wrote two (paid) blog entries for BestofNewYork.com, did a little research for some law stories that are going to overwhelm me completely because I know NOTHING about law, hung a shelf and some pictures...and now am drinking an iced coffee before running to pick Lucy up in 12 minutes. Ack!

Anyway, I loved Gertie's online class at Craftsy.com. I think everyone deserves to have a dress that fits so well and garners so many compliments (my husband's aunt said I was a "sexpot," and an elderly man at the wedding told me, "That dress looks good on you and YOU look good on it." Everyone was surprised that I had made it myself. I've been sewing for many years, but I think even a new sewer could handle making this dress. The videos are as detailed as could be. Plus Gretchen is a delight to watch. It makes you feel better when you see her sew her skirt to her bodice (or something to that effect; I can't remember, but I know it's something I have done before too).

Standing by the getaway mobile

 I wasn't sure how flattering the skirt would be on me, so I made this flared skirt instead. I drafted it myself, but it was easy.

 

The bodice ended up being slightly too big because I lost a few pounds over the past month due to stress. I wore a padded strapless bra with it, and it looked great. When I can eat proper meals again, I think it will fit without a bra. 

And that's ALL I have time for. Time to go get my kid!