Apr 27, 2014

It's Da Bomb! (er jacket) Big Reveal

I didn't notice until afterward how it looks like I'm doing two thumbs-up here. Call it subconscious, but I am pretty stoked about my efforts on this self-drafted silk bomber jacket with raglan sleeves:


The fabric is from Chic Fabrics (225 W 39th Street, # 11). I loved it so much (a subtle print with rows safety pins and needles!) so I really splurged: I bought three yards at $15/yard. (Susan from the blog Moonthirty bought the remainder of the roll and I really can't wait to see what she does with it.). 

The lining I had on hand and the waistband, neckband, cuffs and welts are sewn in a lovely Italian ponte I bought at Metro Textile (265 W 37th St # 908) for $6/yard. The zip is from SIL Thread (257 W 38th St # 1). Please, nobody tally up what this bomber jacket cost me; me-made is priceless, right? (RIGHT!?).

Anyway, after spending so much on fabric, I decided to sew my purse shut and draft my own darn pattern, working from a hoodie pattern I had created a while back. (I had my eye on the Rigel Bomber by Papercut Patterns and another by Burda. Though I liked elements of each, I couldn't afford the Rigel and was put off by a few bad experiences with Burda's insufficient instructions). 

Following the instructions in "The Art and Science of Patternmaking and Grading by Professor Harry Greenberg & Professor Leonard Trattner, it only took one failed draft for me to get the raglan sleeve seaming and fit just right. I opted for a dropped neckline similar to the Rigel though not quite so low. I hate feeling choked by my jacket collar — but I still don't want to expose whatever top I have on underneath! This neckline scoop is my Baby Bear's porridge: just right. So let's see how it looks open:

zzzzzzzzzip!
It feels like a dream, so comfy and silky. It is rather shiny, which made me falter at one point during the late-construction phase. Would it look like some fancy grandpa's Sunday best tracksuit? 


I love how the curved neckline matches up with the top of this tank when the bomber is unzipped.
I know... you want to see the innards. I lined the whole thing with yet more silk. I handstitched the lining to the outer jacket because by that point things were going so well....and I didn't want to risk botching it up!


Fancy grandpas aside, I love this bomber and how I was able to take a fabric like this printed silk and turns it into something casual and almost sporty — something that I could wear every day (unlike a dress or blouse, which I also considered. Had I sewn a dress instead, I would have ended up with something I wear once, maybe twice a year if I'm lucky).


My new silk bomber has already proven to be ultra wearable — so wearable I wore it thrice before I managed to make time with my husband/photographer for a photo shoot. So wearable it already has tea and yogurt on it. So wearable....I am considering wearing it again tomorrow.

Have you ever taken a fancy fabric and turned it into something suitable for every day wear? Tell me about it! 

42 comments:

  1. Stunning! I love the print, and it looks so cool I'd wear it every day, too.

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  2. It's a bomb for sure! Love how you've taken this fabric and made it cool.

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  3. so cool! if i were a better sewer I would be having a crack at my own, but alas I will just admire yours ;)

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  4. And stoked you should be! What a great use of fabric to turn it into a garment that you can wear everyday! Great job!

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  5. What a great jacket! You did an amazing job at drafting your own design. Congratulations!

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  6. Your bomber is absolutely gorgeous. It looks so well drafted.

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  7. Well done! I'm all sort sof blown away, and the fabric is perfect!

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    1. Thanks lady! Hope you're wearing your new jacket lots too!

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  8. Swoon! Love it!

    I have yet to sew fancy fabric. I love what you did here. LOVE!

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  9. I don't think I have turned fancy fabric in to something I could wear everyday (unless you count merino running gear) but this is a great inspiration to give it a shot! I find it funny that you swapped burda's potentially dodgy instructions for no instructions at all! Sometimes it is better to work it out for yourself than be steered wrong by trying to interpret a bursa haiku.

    I love how it looks like the safety pins are catching the light. Such a great use of the fabric.

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    1. Ha! Yes, it's true. Burda's lack of seam allowances also annoys me. I often forget...and then find out something doesn't fit!

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  10. Dude, this kicks so much ass I'm about to cut out my Rigel bomber RIGHT EFFING NOW!!!

    This is amazing! I love that fabric and I'm glad that it won't be hidden in a closet most of the year!!

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    1. Ohh, can't wait to see your Rigel. What fabric are you using?

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  11. This is fabulous. It's simple, yet fancy at the same time. And you drafted it yourself?! I'm seriously impressed..

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  12. Very cool indeed, and very wearable. So clever to draft your own pattern!

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  13. I'm very impressed at your self-drafted pattern! the end result is great, unique and very chic. Nice work.

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    1. Thank you! Yes, no one at kindergarten pickup will have the same jacket as me, guaranteed!

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  14. Fantastic combination of fabric and design. I especially love the lowered neckline since it seems more feminine and flattering.

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  15. It looks awesome! And fancy grandpas are hip, lady! I can't wait to see this jacket in person, so great!

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    1. Will you be at the Workroom Social sewing swap/party next Saturday? Maybe I'll see you then!

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  16. YES!! you win EVERYTHING! i don't think i'd ever take it off.

    math is not my friend, but i'm pretty sure the answer is: a helluva lot less than you'd pay RTW.

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  17. i am all sorts of in love with this jacket! you were so right to buy the silk, and using it for this jacket is just inspired. amazing pattern drafting lady, amazing!

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  18. I am so impressed. I cant believe that you drafted this. it looks amazing.

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  19. Shit! This is fantastic!!!!! The silk print is both luxe and fun (when does that happen?!) and it really looks great as a bomber! I'm in awe of your pattern drafting skills! What a great jacket!!!

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  20. great work! i love how much wear you are getting out of it!

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  21. Holy shit, this turned out amaaaaazing. I am so in awe, this is just everything. I don't have any idea what I'm going to do with mine yet, but you've inspired me SO MUCH. #1 -- make sure it's something everyday-wearable. I want to be able to enjoy this fun print, and like we discussed, it works so well as an "interesting neutral." and #2 -- need a silk bomber in my life. I've seen several lately that I've adored, but this one pushes me over the edge. Don't worry, it won't be the same! You didn't leave me enough for a jacket... ;)

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    1. Hey girl, we don't even live in the same state, so go ahead and make yourself a bomber with this fabric if you want! It's not like we're going to run into each other on the dance floor at prom....

      How many yards did you get anyway?

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    2. BELIEVE ME, I TOTALLY WOULD if I had enough fabric -- I'm not above a complete rip-off! I think I only have like slightly over 2 yds, so it's not enough for me to copy this beauty... BUT! I did get a lovely silk crepe later that same afternoon that might make a lurvely bomber...

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  22. This is so amazing! Well done! , I'm in awe :)

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  23. It's awesome! Such a unique piece yet totally wearable. I want one.

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  24. Stunning! You're so clever it looks great and the cream and black is great with your colouring!

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  25. Gorgeous. I love love love this print. Great pattern drafting too.

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  26. omg I have admired that so many times in Chic Fabrics! I'm so happy to see something so beautiful made with it! I sucked it up and bought a $15 yard of another silk print to make a tank top.

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  27. Late to the comment party, but I love how this came out.

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