It's not illegal, and some argue it's even good for the industry (listen to Kal Raustiala, co-author of The Knockoff Economy: How Imitation Sparks Innovation on NPR). Pattern companies are likewise on the copycat bandwagon.
For example, remember this dress?
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| Pippa Middleton |
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| Butterick 5710 |
The garment in question is a black silk tunic by Lauren Moffat. I love this detail on the back:
The front view is pretty simple:
So I drafted a flat pattern, using the original as my guide:
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| Unintentional photobomb by Ryan |
It's looking a little tortured here, which is both the result of inadequate ironing and probably not quite the right fabric (this is the silk crepe de chine I had leftover from sewing Simplicity 1872, which I recently gave away):
I carefully ripped out all the top stitching. I decided it just didn't work. Or maybe I am just terrible at it. Either way. It had to go. The back looks even more tortured in this photo, but mostly because the sleeves were still pinned at that point. The fit on me is actually really good, though it looks like it's pulling in numerous places here:
For a simple looking top, it was hard to figure out how to construct this thing. It's like facings upon facings...and then sleeves? It turns out ripping something off can be extremely difficult. Figuring out what to sew first was like a puzzle.
It's nearly done, after a week of sewing in short fits and starts (My time to sew over the past 7 days was minimal thanks to Hurricane Sandy, which knocked out power to both my kid's preschool and my husband's office for five days — and shut down the subway system and just about everything else. So that meant we three were all home for days upon days. Even the playgrounds and parks were all closed due to danger of falling branches. You might think that would mean lots of sewing time. You might, if you've never spent any time around a stir-crazy four-year-old.)
It's just waiting now for the buttons, which I bought on Etsy:
I've done a few Anthropologie knockoffs, they're the only brand/label I really have gotten excited about trying to recreate. It's fun to reverse-engineer things, figure out how to make something. I have a feeling they do a bit of that themselves, as you say copying by chains is rampant. I think you've done a lovely job on your top.
ReplyDeleteI'm off to listen to the podcast you linked to now. Have you seen this?
http://www.ted.com/talks/johanna_blakley_lessons_from_fashion_s_free_culture.html
No! I have to check that out. Thanks for posting.
DeleteI certainly have knocked off several things - in fact, almost everything I've made recently was a blatant copy, or heavily "inspired" by a RTW item, or a pattern I liked but didn't want to buy. I feel guilty about it if I'm knocking off a pattern from an indie designer; not so much if I'm copying the look of a $100 dress for $30.
ReplyDeleteDon't you feel like you pulled one over on the man when you're able to DIY something unaffordable? I
DeleteIt's fine! As long as its just for you. I do it. Or start to do it then put my own spin in there. It's pretty much why I use pinterest! Carry on guilt free
ReplyDeleteI've done it with some of my clothes that I wore to death - mainly if the fit has been spot on, as I sometimes change the details as I'm working on it. I would guess that in the original top, the sleeves were stitched onto the out-side facings bits, before the lining facing pieces were attached.... although thats not much help right now!.. so it looks like the way you've them pinned in is the way to go, and just topstitch them down. love the style of the tunic btw
ReplyDeleteYeah, I think you're right. That would have worked better (but too late now to go back and change it!). But oddly that's not how the original is constructed. I can tell the facings were stitched to the yoke before the sleeves were set in. It's really confusing — and also a testament to the fact that this tunic was deservedly pricey (I got it from a friend who worked for the designer).
DeleteI quite literally knock things off all the time. I don't feel bad drafting my own pattern, or buying one and altering it to be more like the garment I'm copying. I inevitably end up making tons of changes so it looks/fits me better haha so this could be why I feel more quilt free
ReplyDeleteThat's the spirit!
DeleteI always knock off others design. In fact, I'm a very bad designer. Ask me to 'dream up' something and I will draw the ugliest creation ever. What I am good at though, is figuring out how something is made. Consider me a fashion technician or engineer.
ReplyDeleteI love that part of it most too. It's like this problem that needs to be solved...maybe we're left-brained? It's what makes pattern making so fun.
DeleteI don't feel bad knocking something off at all. Your tunic looks awesome.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Crystal!
DeleteThis looks great! I love the back! My opinion is pretty much the same as everyone else's-- I think it's fine to knock stuff off as long as you're not selling it. Nice work!
ReplyDeleteI've copied a Kate Spade dress (that the Selfish Seamstress had copied before me), recreated a beloved h&m number when it was worn out (took it apart and remade it with a different print) and just ordered the fabric used to make two spectacular sundresses... I loved them but they were 130 dollars (for cotton dresses), I could find the exact fabric for way less and draft a better fitting though similar pattern myself. I don't feel bad about doing this, I usually copy things I would never buy myself because they're too expensive or just don't fit me well enough. But as so many others have said: don't sell your knockoffs, that's just silly.
ReplyDelete