A Few Questions and Some Fabric Porn

That's right: I'm sewing for a man again. This shirt above, modelled by my husband Ryan (who favours the neck-scratch pose for the striking effect it has on one's jaw line; he gives good face, right?), is McCall's 6044. I'm hoping with a few adjustments it can become a good go-to pattern when Ryan needs a new button-up (or snap-up, as it were). Lucky guy, right? That, and I make coffee everyday.

Anyway, I made him try it on this morning though I had yet to add closures. Then I dragged my kid  to the hardware store and bought a $5 rubber mallet so we could take turns hammering on the pearly snaps — because it just wouldn't be a western-style shirt without them. Three-year-olds have very good work ethic when it comes to smashing things. She also helped me paint a wall this weekend. That's how we do, as my friend Lizzi would say.

My husband, he says the shirt is too big. I sewed a large, which is the size he wears in vintage Wrangler western shirts. I guess large in the 1970s was a little smaller than 2012 large. The next one I make will be a medium. He's a good man though, so I know he will wear this anyway:

My question is this: why do commercial patterns add 5/8-inch seam allowances, and then make you trim off 2/8s of an inch — even on collars, collar stands and plackets? It makes no sense. It demands more effort of you, but for what? In my patternmaking classes, we added 3/8-inch seam allowance to necklines, collars, collar stands, pockets, plackets, cuffs, and the like. Everywhere else got 1/2-inch. Why 5/8, McCall's?? Why? Are they in cahoots with fabric distributors and figure forcing you to add an extra couple eighths of an inch in every direction will multiply the yardage you need for any given project? 

Also, this patterns instructs you do to a ridiculous amount of basting. Again, why??

McCall's 6044

I bought that brown and mauve plaid cotton shirting at Metro Textile (do I ever go anywhere else? Only if I can't find what I need for $5 there first). While I was there, Emmet from Project Runway come in. (Remember him? He was sweet and kind of dazed...and they made him don a hot pink skating outfit at one point. Poor guy.) I'm much too self-concious to ever announce to a famous person I know who they are...or ask for a picture. But he did recommend Chinese herbs to me for my seasonal allergies as Kashi and I were lamenting the high pollen count. I live and die by the pollen count in Spring. 

I also splurged on a few yards of this lovely silk printed with poppies (for myself!): 

 There's a signature "Milly" on this print, which left me wondering what designer's end roll this came from. I'm guessing it's this Milly. Though I can't find any garments made using the print I bought, I can see she knows how to make good use of of patterns (and likes red):

My plan for this print is to make the long-sleeved option of Cynthia Rowley's Simplicity 1872. It's going to be very girly:

But that man pictured above may need to thank me for sewing him such a splendid new shirt, and this dress would be just right for anywhere with creme brulee on the menu, oui?