What Did We Learn From Project Runway This Week? Season 13, Episode 7

Sometimes I love Project Runway so much I would probably let it put a baby in me.

And this week’s episode, with its Met Museum Charles James exhibit visit and Tim Gunn feelings, underlined all the reasons I adore this show: fashion, craft and heart.

The challenge was to create a gala look inspired by Chopard jewels. But before the designers could even get their pencils out to sketch, Tim Gunn made a surprising announcement: he would be using the Tim Gunn Save (TM) on Char —the last eliminated designer.

Tears were shed — at least as many by Tim as by Char. (He's more of a softie every season, isn't he?) I, for one, was very happy to see her return. Char is one awesome lady.

After that emotional moment, Tim took the designers to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, where they visited this summer's Costume Institute Exhibit on Charles James for inspiration (sorry friends; it has since closed). It's so cute how excited the designers were — like they couldn't just pay the donation/admission and see it themselves any time.

It really was an incredible exhibit though, particularly if you are interested in patternmaking and clothing construction. I took my six-year-old daughter in July. We took some photos of our favorite looks:

Yes, this IS meant to look like a vagina

And though their time was as constrained as it's been in recent weeks, nearly all of the designers created a look worthy of the jewels that inspired it. Even the worst looks of the week weren't terrible for a change, though there was one that caused me some confusion. Sean too:  

And that is Amanda's look, a strappy black jumpsuit topped with Betty Draper's organza bathrobe. The judges loved it, apparently, even though it was shockingly (or boringly?) similar to the Hot-For-Yoga-Teacher look she designed in Episode 3 (see below left):
 

I just....sigh...don't even. What? Are they all on crazy pills?

Moving on.

Lesson 1: Upholstery fabric — It ain't just for couches 

I don't know if this tie-in was intentional, but Mood NYC has a new upholstery store — which was perfectly highlighted in this challenge by the fact that Korina successfully used couch-weight furnishing fabric to create a beautiful structured coat. I'm not a huge fan of Korina the Person, but this week Korina the Designer did a pretty amazing job:

Quoth Korina’s model: “It’s so different..it’s you.”

Cut to... Korina wearing a very similar coat:

She struggled with pattern-matching — as we all do. Tim Gunn had to ride her a little to take the front apart so that everything lined up properly. It was obviously a pain to do, but worth it in the end. Coincidentally, earlier this week I found a copy of  a "Sewing With Nancy" tips book on my building's free table (one of the big benefits of apartment living — since we've lived here we have taken in numerous books, a dollhouse, and even a wafflemaker from the free table). Skimming it, I found a great tip on pattern-matching: Cut one side at a time, and while you pin the first take a moment to trace the print onto the paper pattern piece. That way you can use it as a guide to perfectly line up the second piece you cut. A large-scale print like Korina's would have been easy to match with that method. (If she was using the flat-pattern method, of course).

Lesson # 2: Be judicious with the neoprene, people

One thing I've been loving this season of project Runway is the designers' use of neoprene as a fashion fabric. Here are two great examples from previous episodes that demonstrate how wetsuit fabric can be used for great effect:

As a structured shoulder detail

As a jacket with cool cutout sleeve bands

But this week Kini, a designer for whom I am totally rooting despite his giggly cattiness, attempted a bustier cut from neoprene, a highly structured fabric meant to insulate. He might have had better luck shaping a bra cup from a couple slices of stale bread:

The judges didn't totally hate it though because his overall design was at least interesting. Meanwhile, my six-year-old described Kini's dress this way: "Half is like a girl who's dressed and half is a girl who's naked." 

Since you're wondering, that wasn't her worst criticism of the week though. She described Fade's dress as "too bootyish":

Also bootyish,  Emily's dress:

And "too clumpy," inexplicable fan-favorite Alexander's molten lava dress:

What was your favorite look this week? Were you as satisfied as I was with this episode? Are Sandhya's smug looks driving you bonkers? Do you Fall sewing plans include upholstery fabric and neoprene?

What Did We Learn From Project Runway This Week? Season 13, Episode 6

Something is afoot on Project Runway. For one, Kini was once again denied a deserved win — for the third time, I think we can agree.

And two: when did each episode of Project Runway become an hour and a half long? (And how did I not notice that?)

Anyway, the challenge was to design two non-traditional bridal looks — one for the wedding and another for the reception. Featuring guest judge Dita Von Teese (whom my six-year-old daughter proclaimed "THE WHITEST PERSON SHE HAS EVER SEEN!"), the challenge allegedly had no rules.

It was another team challenge and the time constraints were again unfortunately tight. I say "unfortunately" because there's little room for ambitious design when you only have a day. But back to Kini for a moment:

Lesson 1: Being a team player doesn't always make you a winner

Truly, I think both Sean and Kini should have won for these two looks. They were the only team that managed to design and execute cohesive, beautiful and appropriate looks, each making the other stronger:  

Kini's design (left) was exceptional and Sean's winning look is fairly divine. Kini's quibble with Sean was the fact that he only sewed the pants (oh, those amazing pants!) while Kini picked up the slack and finished the white blouse for him. Kini is obviously a sewing superstar, banging out complicated, well-finished looks week after week (I would LOVE to take a closer look at his process, wouldn't you?) but as we've been told before: this is a show about design, not sewing. However, had Kini left Sean to finish the blouse on his own, perhaps the runway results would have been different. 

Lesson 2: Effort doesn't always equal elegance

Sandyha spent hours creating what she called "handmade French lace" in this bright yellow. She then sewed strips of it to her bodice (below left). Googling French lace I could find nothing that resembled Sandyha's handiwork. And to me it just looked like upholstery trimming. I'm all for handcrafting, but if the effect is the same as hotgluing bulkifying braided trim to a satin bodice...then why bother?

Of course, Sandyha was safe and Char went home. Her look (above right) was quite the mess and she seemed uncharacteristically lost in this challenge for some reason. But I was so sad to see her go. I was sure she'd make it at least near the end. Let's look back at some of her other, better looks over the past five episodes:

Lesson 3: Designing your own textile opens up a world of possibilities

Fade's look (below left) was not my favorite but I was interested in his technique. Using the same fabrics as Emily (below right) he layered and pieced together shapes to make this edgy textile. The effect is pretty cool — and definitely unique. And somehow it didn't end up bulky (or quilty) as I'd expected it would. 

I'm exhausting my kid's TV time — and the minutes in which I can devote to this (summer vacation is SO long), so I will leave it up to you readers to comment on Samantha and Alexander's looks: 

Finished Project: Simplicity 1314 Times TWO

When my sewing students told me they wanted to learn to make a dress, I knew finding a pattern would be a challenge. After all, they're a diverse bunch of ladies, each with her own style. How can you possibly pick a dress pattern to please more than one person? 

So first, we settled on some musts we could agree on: sleeves, a simple neckline (no collars or button plackets), and a zipper closure. I also wanted to include a few key techniques: how to sew princess seams and attach a separate bodice and skirt (Sorry, no shift dresses!). It also needed to be a Fall/Winter style. 

I searched and searched...and then one day I got an email: Simplicity had released a new Cynthia Rowley pattern — 1314, a Fall-friendly dress with elbow-length sleeves. It can be made in a woven or slightly stretchy knit like ponte (forgiving for the new sewer or the easily bloated!), and you can mix fabrics for a contrasting center front panel. It's simple, has slimming princess seams, and is classic — though you can make it really modern. I even love the styling on the pattern envelope. Look at her, she's wearing sneakers with a dress. I love sneakers with dresses. Always have. I also love faux leather:

I tested out the pattern twice — and I love it. LOVE. IT. I think it is so, so flattering. I love the neckline, wide-at-the-elbow sleeve and the cut of the skirt. I made it in black ponte (from Chic in NYC's Garment District):  

And in cream ponte (Metro Textiles) with quilted center front and center back panels:

The fabric I used for the contrast panel really is a thing of beauty. It's a cotton blend quilted sweatshirt fabric I found at Paron's on sale a few weeks ago. I may just go back and buy the rest of the bolt. Here's the detail shot you've been waiting for:

Texture!

Of course, the great thing about a princess seam is the fact that you can achieve a great fit through the bust.

I had intended to cut the above black dress with a contrast faux leather center front panel just like the Cynthia Rowley sample, but it turned out the piece of faux I had in my stash was not enough. It worked out though — now I actually have a basic black dress in my wardrobe:

I didn't make many changes to the pattern. I graded out to a larger size at the hip and reduced the back neckline and armscye (which I usually do because I have the back of a 90-pound weakling and the hips of a mother of six). I also ended up taking out some ease at the side seam, though if I had sewn a woven, I probably would have left that in. I think for many women, this pattern would fit great straight out of the envelope. 

I also trimmed a couple inches off the length of the skirt because I am 5 foot 3 and wanted to maintain the right proportions. 

I chose pretty conservative fabrics for my two versions of Simplicity 1314, but I think there's so much room for working with color, texture, and even print with this pattern. 

What fabrics would you choose? And how would you style this dress?

Finished Project: Belated Oonapalooza Rainbow Floral Dress!

Do not adjust your monitors....

This dress, my much belated entry into the Ooonapalooza challenge, is really this bright — no Instagram filters needed to make it pop, thanks to this Michael Miller "Floralicious" printed cotton (available at Hart's Fabrics — you're welcome). It has, I believe, ALL the colors.

What Did We Learn From Project Runway This Week? Season 13, Episode 5

Project Runway needs to plan its airdates a little better because going into this week's challenge — which was to design a dress for Heidi to wear at the Creative Arts Emmys — I already knew the winner. After all, the Creative Arts Emmys took place last Sunday, so there was no suspense if you had already seen her red carpet look:

Thanks, Lifetime

Of course this week's episode was not about suspense. It was about how stressful it is to shop at Mood — and how nobody should have to design and sew a red carpet gown in a single day. Seriously, don't hate the player, hate the game.

I suspect most of you feel the same way: I would rather the challenges on Project Runway be designed to encourage success — not force an an ill-fitting fug fest due to arbitrary time restrictions. But that's what we got this week on Project Runway. By my count, there were only four dresses that were red carpet-worthy. In order below, Fade, Sean, Kini and Sandyha:

In addition to the lowest scoring gowns, which we will get into in more detail when we talk lessons, there were a couple other dresses I thought were so bad it begs discussing:

Emily's dress (far left) is so short, and yet it had a slit. A slit! In a miniskirt! A slit!! You could catch an STI if you sat down in this thing! How did they not call her out on that? It's also rumpled and so sad. Like a stewardess on Blade Runner Air. Meanwhile, Alexander's dress (center) with its many stitched-down folds was so stiff it looked like it was made from an emergency rescue blanket. Next!

Amanda, of course, was actually in the top 3 with this Cleopatra costume. And in this small picture I admit it actually looks better than I thought it did up close. Still: stripes? On the red carpet? I believe there was actually rickrack in her design:

Rickrack! Moving on.

Lesson 1: Mood can make you or break you

Now, I don't sew for clients so I can't say for sure, but I'm pretty certain that if you were custom-making a special event gown you would OK your fabric first before purchasing, cutting and sewing, right?

Of course, the designers on Project Runway don't have that luxury and instead have to shop on a hunch and a hope — and all in just 30 minutes at Mood. I've said it before and I will say it again: I've shopped Mood many times, but I don't believe I've ever made it in and out in under 30 minutes. It would take me that much time to choose a plain white shirting at Mood. There are just that many choices — and that many distractions. I completely sympathize with the designers who couldn't find the right fabrics.

Still, if your client hates your green fabric and you are given a second chance at fabric shopping, would you buy MORE green fabric like Korina did? Because truly, the two fabrics were not all that different:

That choice made in the harried aisles of Mood was the design world equivalent of shooting yourself in the foot (stabbing yourself with your own scissors?). But somehow she still dodged a bullet, thanks to Kristine and Mitchell's red looks:

Droopy, ill-proportioned, and committing multiple crimes against cleavage, there's not much to learn from these two dresses — other than the fact that a single day is just not enough time to create a red carpet-ready gown. I felt really bad for both designers.

Sandyha, meanwhile, made the most of her second trip to the fabric store by hustling her way around the workroom to gather the remaining Mood money from those few designers who were happy with their initial purchases. She ended up spending a whopping $432 dollars — most of it on a $120/yard black lace, which she overlaid on yellow to great effect.

Of course, the other designers were sour grapes about Sandhya's sneaky dealings, but all's fair in fashion and fabric shopping. I was most surprised that the others neglected to shake down their fellow designers for extra

Lesson 2:  Fringe is in?

How many challenges have been won on a fringe dress this season on Project Runway? This many:

Make it stop.

What did you learn this week watching Project Runway? Who was your fave? And will you be sewing fringe this Fall?